When it comes to South Carolina barbecue, Dukes is one of the state’s great family names. But the restaurants bearing that name were never one chain. They grew from a network of relatives who opened separate businesses, each of which developed its own identity.
The family story reaches back to Willie Baltzegar of Rowesville, who became known for cooking barbecue and hash for community gatherings. Members of the Dukes family worked with him and learned from him, including Danny Dukes, who later opened a restaurant of his own.
Earl Dukes learned the business from his brother Danny and opened his first Orangeburg restaurant in 1955. He later moved to Whitman Street before selling the restaurant in 1969. The business continued under new ownership and kept the Dukes name.
Harold Kittrell was among the later owners, and the Kittrell family became closely associated with the Whitman Street restaurant. Kittrell was interviewed by Rien Fertel for the Southern Foodways Alliance about Earl Dukes, the restaurant, its hash, and the family history behind it. Give it a listen below.
(Of course, South Carolina’s barbecue scene is packed with legendary joints and hidden gems. See more BBQ restaurants in SC to discover where to go next in the state or find other great BBQ joints near Orangeburg.)
For outsiders, the fried chicken, which is tender and juicy beneath its crisp batter, is as much a draw is the pork. But for locals who grew up eating the stuff, the finely chopped pork dressed with Dukes's signature sauce is the essence of real barbecue.
That sauce is either a variant of the Midland's style mustard-based barbecue sauce or a unique sauce category in and of itself, for it has both ketchup and mustard in it, which gives it an unusual orangeish – red hue. Kittrell, who runs the Whitman Street Duke's today, calls it "rust gravy."
Indeed, Dukes is famous for spawning the "Orangeburg Sweet" mustard-based BBQ sauce that is really a mixture containing mayo, mustard, and ketchup, according to a source we spoke with at Antley's in Orangeburg.
Dukes Bar-B-Que on Whitman has been around for a while, as you can tell from this old clip from SCETV:
What Folks are Saying
Google Review
Among the many Google Reviews, Local Guide Tripp Waters is a veteran of Dukes Bar-B-Que on Whitman and visits whenever he can:
My favorite barbecue restaurant and has been for years, I try to go every chance I get. My preference: Hash and Rice (a beloved staple), hush-puppies (sweet and crispy with fluffy cores), pulled pork with dukes bbq sauce (heavenly), slaw (I love it), and their sweet tea (hmmmm)... back up singers: bread and butter pickles and beans. And I do go back for seconds.
Yelp Review
Over on Yelp, Heath P says that no matter where you're going in SC, a trip to Dukes Bar-B-Que on Whitman in Orangeburg is completely worth it:
The Best BBQ in the World !! $8 all you can eat. Duke's will make you blissfully miserable and send you spiraling into the most satisfying food coma of your life.
They use the best semi-sweet mustard base sauce I have ever had. Their pulled pork is the most tender I've had at a restaurant. It has the perfect smoky flavor and their pork hash is awesome. To say the least (just don't use too much rice - you can eat that at home). Add fried chicken, BBQ chicken, and the best skins you've ever had . . . Mmmmm.
Sometimes I get a few green beans and pickles just to add a different color to my plate. There is nothing fancy about Duke's. Cafeteria-style, a pitcher of sweet tea on every table, and a little bit of taxidermy on the walls.
There's probably not a lot of reasons for most to find themselves in Orangeburg, SC. But if you are going to catch a game at SC State, or decide that you want the best BBQ in the world on your way to Columbia or Myrtle Beach, Duke's is totally worth the diversion.
SC BBQ Association
Sure, folks on review sites often have great things to say about a place, but what about the folks who really know SC BBQ better than anyone? What about the folks who actually train the judges for SC BBQ competitions? What do they think of this place?
Well, the SC BBQ Association has named this place one of the Top 100 BBQ houses in the state.
Duke’s barbeque houses in their many forms around the state have probably served more barbeque than anyone else in the state with the possible exception of Maurice’s. Starting in the little town of Cope (where there is no Duke’s any longer), the Dukes family then opened their next restaurant in Orangeburg. They thrived there and set the standard for barbeque for miles around.
Co-founder and publisher of Destination BBQ and author of Going Whole Hog. Since 2012, he has covered South Carolina barbecue restaurants, history, and culture.
I like to cook, especially on the smoker, and I like SC history, so what I like most is that they all have some connection to my state and my taste profile. Get the book! Makes for some great reading (and meals). I don’t know anyone on the fence. Once I pitch it, they usually… Read more "MAKES FOR GREAT READING"